The Quest for Real Bacon

Air dried cured Meat Techniques

The Quest for Real Bacon

Postby BriCan » Sun Jan 22, 2012 11:42 am

The question/discussion came around within a few threads about what seems to be about a lot of rind and reason, the threads get longer and die a slow agonising death only to re-appear a few months later when the primeval urge hits once more.

For me this started many eons ago at a tender young age of about five; it used to be a race in the morning between my two sisters and I to see whom would be up early enough to cook our mothers bacon sandwich. Them that are old enough will remember the war where everything was on ration; there are others that remember a short time later when rationing was still on due to the Suez Crisis of the early fifties hence mother had the bacon as well as the butter, us poor bairn’s could only chew on the smell until we found out that cooking the bacon rind on a high heat gave us the fixings that we craved

Growing up as a child in the early fifties was a treat as of yet food as I and some other oldies remember the taste of things that had not been tainted with chemicals and additives as most of today’s products are. As a young lad starting in the trade I went to college to further my education within the trade hopefully advancing my way up the ladder.

Whilst at college we learned the fundamentals of the trade, math, English, science, biology and refrigeration. What really fascinated me were the different breeds of beef lamb and pork, now as a young lad I took all this for granted as each had a long history and Mrs Jones loved her fillet (bottom end of the leg opposed to the shank end for our North American friends) of pork for the Sunday joint.

How things change, and not for the better

Mrs Smith came along and decided that she did not like all the good fat associated with good wholesome pork and before too long there came a change to breed lean pork that had more meat and could be killed sooner than later

You are now beginning to wonder what all this has to do with ‘Bacon” bare with me as you need to know where you have come from in order to get back there from here

Five and a half years travelling around the world on cruise liners then emigrating out to Canada I started to hear rumours of what was/is called ‘Rear Breads’, this perked my interest as I had not come across this whilst at college. Upon delving into it more I found to my dismay it was the breads that I had grown up with

In the UK we placed our pigs in three distinct categories;

Pork Carcase; Berkshire, Middle White. Bacon Type Carcase; Tamworth, Large White and Multi-purpose Pigs; Landrace. The following breeds can be described as intermediate types; Lincolnshire Curly Coat, Large Black

I was asked politely with tongue in cheek
Robert (brican), can you please 'av a word with your new North American mates and educate them about bacon not being hot smoked, or for that matter cooked in advance?


http://forum.sausagemaking.org/viewtopic.php?t=8992 I think (?) (please see disclaimer on tag line) our fine North American friends have been eating what they class as ‘bacon’ out this way for so long it must seem a strange concept to listen to us talking about ‘real bacon’ that has the complexity of flavours and texture --- and that’s before it’s cooked and defiantly not hot smoked as that just plain ruins/destroys the complexity of flavours one has worked hard to produce.

It still amazes me each time I place unsmoked (green) bacon in an unbeliever’s hand as I did two days ago (unsmoked (green) Ayrshire short back bacon) after explaining how to cook sent him on his way. Today he tells me that his girlfriend does not like any type of bacon but persuades her to try ---- she just about ate the whole pound :shock:

In the meantime I had been reading (and swearing at the screen) about Ayrshire bacon and how some fine people over here http://wedlinydomowe.pl/en/viewtopic.ph ... hire+bacon believed that it was held together with ‘meat glue’, what it seemed that they did not know the fundamentals of dry curing bacon the traditional UK way.

The other part of this equation was the question that came up about Whole hog purchase and butchering http://forum.sausagemaking.org/viewtopic.php?t=8968 and DanMcG timely request
I'd also like to see some back bacon pic's Brican...


One thing has lead to another and thus the journey has begun.


Trying to explain that we can and do turn the (or just about) whole hog into bacon can and may seem mind boggling to our North American friends so with taking photos to place in the tread Whole hog purchase and butchering for Vindii I carried on preparing the pork middle to answer the question about Ayrshire bacon in that other fine forum.

I have my own Ayrshire bacon spice recipe which I got from a young lady who was in charge of the catering department at Glasgow University (in1990), I use it with great success on my Ayrshire Short Back, but this time for this project I needed something new to try – besides I was bored
I revisited Maynard Davies Manual of a Traditional Curer and on page 58 there is a recipe for Traditional Ayrshire Bacon. I have looked the recipe over many times before but not to this degree – the challenge was now on.

First things first is get the pork ready for curing;

Pork Middle

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Tenderloin coming out

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Starting to take out the ribs – first off is taking out the breast bone

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The ribs follow

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Removing the hip bone

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Back bone next

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All bones out

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Chump (top Sirloin) removed; used for pork chops – sausages – stuffed pork chops (that's another story)

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Top of the knife defining the cutting line for the long back

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Top of the knife defining the cutting line for the short back

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Ready to take off the rind

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The start

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Finished; rind off

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Rolling to see how it looks before adding the curing salt and spices

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This is as far as I go tonight/morning as this might/will get monotonous for some people – plus I need some sleep


Tune in next week; same time; same channel; same station

this is BriCan signing off for WWBD until next time --- eat more bacon :D :lol: :lol:
But what do I know
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Postby grisell » Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:39 pm

Looks great! :D I'm looking forward to your updates.
André

I have a simple taste - I'm always satisfied with the best.
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Postby DanMcG » Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:49 pm

grisell wrote:Looks great! :D I'm looking forward to your updates.


I agree. keep it coming.
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Postby wheels » Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:43 pm

A real interesting one Brican. I note that Maynard does his as a dry cure, whereas Ramsay's use a brine - which way are you going?

Phil
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Postby solaryellow » Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:52 pm

I will definitely be tuning in for the next episode. :)
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Postby BriCan » Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:42 am

wheels wrote:A real interesting one Brican. I note that Maynard does his as a dry cure, whereas Ramsay's use a brine - which way are you going?


Maynard's as I think :?: there's more challenge to it :!: , I do a Wiltshire (style) cure now and Ramsay's is noted to be somewhat the same :?: make the brine up; drop the boneless loins in for four to five days then hang to dry/mature
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Postby BriCan » Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:47 am

Part Two;

As I had previously said this round of "The Quest for Real Bacon" is that I am doing dry cured non smoked (green) bacon from Maynard Davies Manual of a Traditional Curer on page 58 the recipe for a Traditional Ayrshire Bacon

The prep work (boning out the middle) had been done the day before vagreys was due to arrive which left the Friday morning to finish off putting down the rest of the bacon just leaving the Ayrshire

Need one more time to go over the calculations for the spice combination as I do not have a dry box nor am I curing a whole carcase so no need for 28 lb of cure/spice mix

Maynard’s spice recipe calls for salt, saltpetre, Demerara sugar and pepper ---- calculations done for the tenth time and logged into the computer (remember; we need a record of everything we do so that we have a place to look if things go wrong)

The spice combination that I did;

1420g All Purpose Curing Salt
230g Demerara sugar
45g White pepper

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Taking handfuls of the curing mix I proceeded to cover the meat side of the middle making sure that there was an even coating before rolling and covering the outside (fat side)

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Rolled and ready for curing for eight days

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It was at this point we placed it into the tub and placed in the cooler, about an hour later vagreys had a look see to see how much liquid was coming out of the meat. There was an update on the Saturday

Today is the eighth; so later on we start the next stage

Stay tuned
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Postby DanMcG » Mon Jan 23, 2012 9:31 am

Hey Robert what is your formula for the all propose curing salt, or is it a commercial product?
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Postby tommix » Mon Jan 23, 2012 2:48 pm

Is demerara sugar the same as turbinado sugar, or at least close?

Thanks

Tim
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Postby Vindii » Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:10 pm

Very cool post Robert. Thanks for posting it. Can't wait to see how it ends up.
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Postby wheels » Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:39 pm

BriCan wrote:
wheels wrote:A real interesting one Brican. I note that Maynard does his as a dry cure, whereas Ramsay's use a brine - which way are you going?


Maynard's as I think :?: there's more challenge to it :!: , I do a Wiltshire (style) cure now and Ramsay's is noted to be somewhat the same :?: make the brine up; drop the boneless loins in for four to five days then hang to dry/mature


Yes, I believe that Ramsay's method is something like that. In fact, I'm sure that on a UK TV Programme (Rick Stein?) that it showed them injecting the eye of the loins.

Phil
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Postby BriCan » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:15 pm

wheels wrote:
BriCan wrote:
wheels wrote:A real interesting one Brican. I note that Maynard does his as a dry cure, whereas Ramsay's use a brine - which way are you going?


Maynard's as I think :?: there's more challenge to it :!: , I do a Wiltshire (style) cure now and Ramsay's is noted to be somewhat the same :?: make the brine up; drop the boneless loins in for four to five days then hang to dry/mature


Yes, I believe that Ramsay's method is something like that. In fact, I'm sure that on a UK TV Programme (Rick Stein?) that it showed them injecting the eye of the loins.

Phil


From Ramsay’s web site http://www.ramsayofcarluke.co.uk/ayrshi ... n-c-1.html

Ayrshire-cured Bacon
The Ramsay family has been making Ayrshire bacon for well over 150 years. Ayrshire is the traditional Scottish cure that takes skinless and boneless sides of outdoor-reared pork and slowly cures them in a vat to give it an exceptional flavour.

Ayrshire bacon is matured slowly to let the natural flavours develop, and because we don't add water or additives, our bacon won’t shrink away in the pan and will crisp up beautifully. So if you value good traditional produce you owe it to yourself to give our bacon a try.


Because I have not see the show nor can I find a write up (BBC) on it, it makes me ponder :?: as they have been doing it for over 150 years the traditional way why would they inject with a brine solution

Note what I have highlighted
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Postby BriCan » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:33 pm

DanMcG wrote:Hey Robert what is your formula for the all propose curing salt, or is it a commercial product?


Mine in is a commercial product, but saying that I do know that it can be had by regular folks both in Canada as well as the UK (although under different names)

Dan; I have an enquiry into B&P to find out if what I have is equivalent to some of there stuff. Will let you know the reply

Below is what I use

HTH

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Postby BriCan » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:36 pm

tommix wrote:Is demerara sugar the same as turbinado sugar, or at least close?

Thanks

Tim


Not the same :?: close I think :!:
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Postby saucisson » Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:59 pm

Turbinado sugar is made by evaporating cane juice, demerara by boiling it.

Bit like the difference between smoke and smoke liquid :)

So Turbinado is a much more natural product, but not easily obtained in the UK. For our purposes I think you can substitute demerara for turbinado.
Curing is not an exact science... So it's not a sin to bin.

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