My new curing cabinet controller.

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My new curing cabinet controller.

Postby JollyJohn » Mon Nov 14, 2011 10:47 pm

Just finished making the new controller for my curing cabinet. I've used the ETC-200+ for temperature, and the DHC-100+ for humidity, both available from Forttex. http://www.forttex.com/

I have the ETC-200 set at low temp 14c., high temp 15c. controlling the tubular heater. The DHC-100 controls the fridge compressor, and is set 80% RH, with a 5% offset. Meaning it turns the compressor on at 85%. turns off at 80%. The RH actually goes down to about 76% after the compressor turns off. The "fridge" is acting as a de-humidifier, because of the condensate channel and run-off. Its working perfectly!! I've set RH fairly high to start with, to avoid case hardening, will probably drop it to 75% in about a weeks time.


I know this set-up is only going to work in the winter, when the ambient temperature is lower than the cabinet temperature, ie. below about 12-13 degrees. In the summer months I'll have to use the "fridge" for temperature control, and maybe get a small de-humidifier.

My cabinet is fairly small, I'm on the lookout for a larger larder fridge, with same type of channel de-frost arrangement.


Image
Tubular heater in the bottom of the cabinet, temperature and humidity sensors are top right.


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Channel with exit hole for condensate to run into a plastic tray, the tray is above the compressor motor, and heat from the motor evaporates the water. You can clearly see droplets of water on the back wall, at the top.


Image


I put the humidity and temperature controller in an IP66 box, which I purchased from my local electrical wholesaler. Box and two 13 amp outlets cost £10.50.
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Postby DanMcG » Mon Nov 14, 2011 11:50 pm

Could you give me some more info on the heater, I might be doing the same thing.
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Postby wheels » Tue Nov 15, 2011 12:08 am

Looks good to me JollyJohn. I like the 'project box'. Can you post details of the supplier please?

Phil
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Postby JollyJohn » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:23 am

wheels wrote:Looks good to me JollyJohn. I like the 'project box'. Can you post details of the supplier please?

Phil


Phil. I bought the box from Electric Centre, its made by Acel, part no. AC7223, measures 230x180x88, IP65 (not 66). In their catalogue, its priced at £10.55, which I assume is plus VAT, mine must have been cheaper as we have an account with them. It is made of polystyrene, which is very easy to work with. I cut the openings by drilling a small hole in each corner, then used a hot Stanley knife to cut/melt between.

The tubular heater is 45W, and a foot (305mm) long. Electric Centre have them in the catalogue at £22.80, I'm sure I paid them just over half that! They are available all over the net, just Google "tubular heater".

John.
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Postby Yannis » Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:35 am

Nice job JollyJohn !!!!

You can use your setup in the summer if you use the refrigerator for both dehumidifier and cooler. Use cooling output of temp controller in parallel with dehumidifying output of humidity controller to power refrigerator. The refrigerator will then turn on if temperature OR humidity goes high. In case it dehumidify a lot and temperature drops below threshold then heater will turn on to compensate. Pay attention to parallel Live with Live and Neutral with Neutral to avoid shortcircuit. If refrigerator is old and has not a delay on break protection you should add a delay on break timer in series with refrigerator power, I used this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Universal-D ... 500wt_1103
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Postby JollyJohn » Tue Nov 15, 2011 4:06 pm

Yannis wrote:Nice job JollyJohn !!!!

You can use your setup in the summer if you use the refrigerator for both dehumidifier and cooler. Use cooling output of temp controller in parallel with dehumidifying output of humidity controller to power refrigerator. The refrigerator will then turn on if temperature OR humidity goes high. In case it dehumidify a lot and temperature drops below threshold then heater will turn on to compensate. Pay attention to parallel Live with Live and Neutral with Neutral to avoid shortcircuit. If refrigerator is old and has not a delay on break protection you should add a delay on break timer in series with refrigerator power, I used this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Universal-D ... 500wt_1103


Don't you just love this forum!!! Thanks Yannis, I'll have a go at your suggestion, but I think I'll need to buy the TC10, which does cooling AND heating, my ETC200 does cooling OR heating. The delay relay sounds like a good idea, I'll order one.

John.
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Postby wheels » Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:02 pm

JollyJohn wrote:Phil. I bought the box from Electric Centre, its made by Acel, part no. AC7223, measures 230x180x88, ...


Many thanks John
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Postby Yannis » Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:45 pm

Sorry John, I didn't look at ETC200 specs :oops:

Keep in mind that you should program controller's differentials so that you avoid "ping pong" between heating/cooling (and humidifying/dehumidifying if you add humidifier and controller). The use of delay on break is generally good but if you turn on refrigerator from different controls then is necessary.
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