Best way to sharpen mincer blades

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Best way to sharpen mincer blades

Postby Deer Man » Wed Mar 09, 2005 9:09 pm

Hi, can anyone tell me the best way to sharpen my blades, I do have a spare but I don't see the point in buying new when I could sharpen the old one! :lol:
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Postby aris » Wed Mar 09, 2005 11:15 pm

I'll bet there is a special machine to do this properly - and I also suspect you are better off just using a new one instead of sharpening :)

What kind of mincer do you have?
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Postby Deer Man » Thu Mar 10, 2005 4:17 am

The machine is a Crypto Peerless, i will probably use my diamond stone on the old blade. :roll:
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Postby Platypus » Thu Mar 10, 2005 6:00 am

The only real way to sharpen them would be on a surface grinder, as the faces need to remain flat. Your local engineering firm will be able to do this pretty quickly.

The only problem is how much they can grind off before the blade becomes too thin to use. This info might be difficult to find out reliably, but I suppose the mincer manufacturers might be able to help, although they would probably rather sell you new blades :(

I guess using your diamond stone (or a large wetstone) will sharpen the blades ok but you will need to be careful not to bevel the face.

And remember, don't deburr the holes :roll:
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Postby aris » Thu Mar 10, 2005 10:00 am

How long do you find a blade lasts? I.e. how many kilos of meat do you crunch through before needing a new blade?
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Postby Deer Man » Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:57 pm

I have fitted a new blade, the one I had in my hand mincer and it keeps getting jammed with bits of connective tissue. Does anyone have a remedy apart from removing every bit from all meat!
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Postby Jonty » Sat Mar 12, 2005 10:18 am

Do you freeze the meat before mincing it ??
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Postby Deer Man » Sat Mar 12, 2005 11:54 am

yes i freeze the meat and I also keep any I am not using whilst working with another batch in the freezer.
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Sharpening mincer blade

Postby wurstman » Mon Mar 14, 2005 5:23 pm

If you sharpen your mincer blade i.e. on a surface griinder which is the best method, you should also have the plate ground as well to keep them as a mated pair. It is also a good idea to have two blades for each plate, one for each side and keep them colour coded as not to mix them up.
Keeping your blades and plates sharp helps reduce sinue build up.
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Re: Sharpening mincer blade

Postby Deer Man » Mon Mar 14, 2005 8:07 pm

wurstman wrote:If you sharpen your mincer blade i.e. on a surface griinder which is the best method, you should also have the plate ground as well to keep them as a mated pair. It is also a good idea to have two blades for each plate, one for each side and keep them colour coded as not to mix them up.Keeping your blades and plates sharp helps reduce sinue build up.


Slightly confused by this! My mincer has the worm, then the blade and then the plate and then the locking plate. How do you have a blade on either side of the plate :?:

Could you please enlighten me? :?
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Postby wurstman » Wed Mar 16, 2005 6:28 pm

You do not use two blades at once.

You designate each one of the blades to be used on its own side of the plate only.

When the performance of the first blade and first side of the plate starts to decline, you then use the other blade with the other side of the plate.

You have to turn the plate around so the sharp side faces the meat!!

When the second blade and second side of the plate decline in performance you get both blades and the plate reground and begin the cycle all over.

You must keep them in identified pairs, it is no good to match a new blade with a used plate, unless the plate is first reground to make it flat, so that it can mate with the new blade, and vice-versa.
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Postby Deer Man » Wed Mar 16, 2005 7:17 pm

wurstman wrote:You have to turn the plate around so the sharp side faces the meat!!.


My plates are flat on both sides with holes in. Do you mean turn the blade around? My blades like all the others I have seen are convex on one side of the arms with the sharpened edge on the flat side. :?
Wurstman, a picture would paint a thousand words. Any chance?
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Postby bigwheel » Wed Mar 16, 2005 8:09 pm

Well this made sense here for a while and think it be contigent on having one plate and 2 knives. Now I have two plates and two knives and am operatiing under the impression that each knife needs to paired and used with the same plate each time. Now if I managed to keep the plate facing always the same direction...which I aint never heard of before..it seems like that would hasten its demise of being flat. Looks like you could get more life out of it by alternating the sides facing the knife and/or alternating the knife from one plate and plate exposure to another. That cause everything to sorta erode equally wouldnt it? Bound to extend the time before the plate needs grinding. Thanks. Think the plate for mine costs about 12 bucks. Might not be worth the trouble to worry about it huh? Now I aint priced the knives.

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wurstman wrote:You do not use two blades at once.

You designate each one of the blades to be used on its own side of the plate only.

When the performance of the first blade and first side of the plate starts to decline, you then use the other blade with the other side of the plate.

You have to turn the plate around so the sharp side faces the meat!!

When the second blade and second side of the plate decline in performance you get both blades and the plate reground and begin the cycle all over.

You must keep them in identified pairs, it is no good to match a new blade with a used plate, unless the plate is first reground to make it flat, so that it can mate with the new blade, and vice-versa.
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Postby wurstman » Thu Mar 17, 2005 12:35 pm

Deer Man, Yes the plates are flat on both sides and have holes, and the blades are flat only on the cutting side.

Think of the plate as a coin, with a heads side, and a tails side.

Now you have two blades (knives), Use one of them on the heads side only and the other blade on the tails side only.

Now is that any clearer?

Bigwheel, Alternating the blade (knife) from one side of the plate to the other each time you use them does not conserve the plate, in fact it does quite the opposite.

Designating each blade to be used on its own side of the plate only, ensures that they wear-in together as a mated pair and form their own contours, even as they wear they are still mated.

They will last longer and cut better as a mated pair than they would do if they were just used randomly as you suggest.

I am using a # 32 grinder and am looking at approx 60 bucks for a plate and one blade each time I renew them, thats why I am careful with their use and don't interchange them.
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Postby Oddley » Thu Mar 17, 2005 1:29 pm

You blokes might find This interesting.

wurstman what material do you use to paint on the plate and blade to colour code them. It must be food safe. I ask because I want to do mine.
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