Do I need to sharpen my Slicer Blade?

[markh]

Having got hooked by the bacon curing/sausage thing, I invested in a relatively old but pukker 10" commercial slicer from ebay - I think I got lucky - �20, reasonably local, only bid (and it small enough to slide out of the way under the cupboards!)

Most of the time its fine, although I find it still helps to part freeze the bacon, but it tends to leave slivers of bacon at the edges of the joint, these catch in the gap between blade and guide after only 4-6 slices.

It's fine again if I trim it square. Is this normal or a symptom of a problem? I know some slicers have self sharpening blades - is it true of all of them? As you may guess I have no previous experience with such kit

Incidentally, is there a 'recognised' thickness for a slice of bacon or is it purely personal preference? I initially tried 2mm - looked like a 'conmercial' slice but cooked terribly!

[Paul Kribs]

markh

�20, I'll say you got lucky getting a 10" slicer for that. I missed out on one that went for �21.05 (buyer collect about 40 miles away). Wife nagged a bit about the room it would take up, how often I would use it etc. I have bid on a few since but no luck yet. I should have gone with my initial instinct.

It does sound like your blade has lost its edge, although I do recall that the same thing used to happen when I used to work as a lad in Griggs in Eltham many years ago. Although I was rarely allowed to use the hand operated slicer (there's a similar one on ebay for �2.300 starting bid), the guy that used to do most of the slicing used to do something I found quite alarming. About every 15 slices he would wipe a water soaked cloth over the edge of the blade to clean it, while still operating it. I used to cringe and think how dangerous this was, and didn't know why he did it but can only assume that it was to alleviate the problem you are having. I would not recommend the procedure, but turn off the machine and clean the blade. When I used to slice and the same thing occurred I recall that it would correct itself after a few more slices although one or two would have a ragged edge. The blade was sharpened every evening ready for the next day.

I also recall that the bacon was almost icy and after boning and jointing had taken place it was always put back in the cold room prior to slicing.

Regards, Paul Kribs

[Oddley]

I agree with paul, Although I do actually hold a wet cloth to my slicer blade whilst running. Albeit with the width adjustment on 0.

I normally check the sharpness on the blade by opening up the width adjustment to max and with the machine unplugged run my thumb across the bade. If it is not razor sharp I sharpen it.

I normally slice my bacon on 3mm, but that is a personal preference.

[aris]

What kind of slicer do you have Oddley?

[Oddley]

aris I have this one:

It's not bad, but still has a bit of trouble cutting the rind on bacon, unless semi frozen.

Got it used from http://www.nisbets.co.uk/

[Paul Kribs]

Well talk about coincidence, I have just won a slicer on Ebay for �21.52 + P&P.

It's not the best slicer but should serve my needs, looks like I will have to fashion a perspex guard for it but it shouldn't be a problem, also looks like the centre hub is 90 degrees out, and there is no mention of a built in sharpener.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7537141766

Told the wife it would enhance the dining room table no end

Regards, Paul Kribs

[markh]

Interesting tip with the cleaning - I had noticed that the blade tended to get coated with a layer of fat that 'dragged' on the bacon - maybe that was deforming it.

The slicer I got is similar to http://www.kempsafe.com/metf10.html but Alloy rather than Stainless.

What is the best way to sharpen the blade? Is a stone or a steel the preferred tool?

By the way any tips on how butchers get such a razor sharp edge on their knives would be appreciated - I only seem to manage 'pretty sharp' rather than the edge it had when new.

I have resorted to using an 'Ever-sharp' set with carbide edges which Tesco sell - heartily recommend them to anyone with the same problem.

[Oddley]

Looks great Paul and cheap as chips.

[Paul Kribs]

markh

If the slicer I am getting comes without a built in sharpener and if the edge is dull then I shall remove the blade and run my medium grade diamond stone around the edge from both sides. I will have to make a tapered wooden jig to maintain the same angle all round. The other method would be to use the diamond stone and hold it at an angle against the edge while the blade is spinning.. but then we are back to dangerous sports.

For your knives you need to firstly hone with the diamond stone. If you know anybody with sharpening station this would be ideal, a woodworking friend for instance. This will give a very keen edge. Then it's a case of using a good quality steel when working with the knives to maintain the edge. Steels do wear out and I replaced my old 10" with a 14" and the difference was remarkable. Once you have a good edge it is very easy to maintain it.


Regards, Paul Kribs

[markh]

Thanks for the tips Paul.

I am not sure I would class the blade as 'dull' yet - I assure you I treat it with a great deal of respect when I am cleaning the machine (afraid its a case of 'once bitten' tho... )

One thing I am a little uncertain on, the blade appears to be hollow ground on the rear and almost flat on the front edge - should I try to adjust the sharpening stone angles to suit?

[Paul Kribs]

Markh

Hollow ground edges arm the norm nowadays for a lot of cutting tools, even woodworking tools. Initially imposed by the Japanese. The purpose of a hollow ground edge is that subsequent sharpenings does not encroach on the main structure of the blade. It is supposed to make sharpening less wasteful of the main blade metal. When or if it does encroach on the substantial part of the blade metal it is time to change the blade. If the position of the sharpening stones does the intended job then I would not adjust them at all. If however you feel that they are not honing then adjustment may be of benefit. If adjustment does not cure the problem think about a blade change. Generally these blades do not need changing for the home user. Just information I have picked up whilst browsing the web.. Shows the extent of boredom I suppose, but hopefully helpful in your case.

Regards, Paul Kribs

[markh]

OK, thanks a lot Paul

[Paul Kribs]

markh

I do not know the reason for the blade being hollow ground only on the back, I can only summise that in some way it assists the cut rasher to curl away and onto the tray beneath, conversely the flat front keeps the joint flat... Just my opinion you understand.

Regards, Paul Kribs