cleaning the CSG

[welsh wizard]

Just found a new and novel way to clean my CSG. Normally I soak it in boiling water with soda crystals but the wife was power washing the drive on Sunday (I let her do that sort of thing, she enjoys it, honestly ) and took out the CSG for a quick wash. It brought it up like new!!! I was a tad worried that the power of the water would bend it but nope it stood up to it very well indeed. So if your wife has the power washer in her hand........give it a go.

Cheers WW

[GUS]

Interested to try the soda crystal method, could you elaborate on qty of crystals, soak & clean etc.

i've clearly been doing it the hard way too long with hot water,liquid detergent soaking, scrubbing, picking carbon out with a screwdriver, anything to make it quicker & cleaner.

[slemps]

Another tip for you, blast it with a blowtorch (big one, not a kitchen one). That gets all of the burnt on stuff off easily. Keep going until nothing will stay lit after the torch goes off, then just tap it against the wall.

Hey presto, good as new.

S.

[kimgary]

Soak overnight in caustic soda, rinse.

[GUS]

Blowtorch NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The temperature far exceeds that of the solders intended capability which is in numerous places for your CSG, ..will melt, & leave you a pool in seconds, & you will likely also knacker chroming & simply unseat more of the wire mesh in the short term!

[welsh wizard]

I place CSG in a small dish upside down, put a table spoon of soda crystals on the top, pour boiling water over it, covering it and leave it overnight. Rinse and if you want it really clean just rub gently with some wire wool. I only use this method to release the carbon build up in the CSG's micro holes and it works well. I do this every 5 or so uses and never have had the CSG go out on me - yet!

Cheers WW

[GUS]

Thanks for that concise info. will give it a go. never thought of wire wool.

[saucisson]

I've noticed you have mentioned the chrome plating a couple of times GUS, but according to the manufacturer both CSGs are made of stainless steel.

"Made from high grade Stainless Steel" . So I think they are probably more robust than you think.

Similarly are you sure they are soldered? I'd have thought you would have to weld stainless, although I'm not completely sure.

[GUS]

chrome plating, ..aw shucks you got me there!

However i'd guess this is solder to anchor such fine wire in place, & have had detachment in the key areas happen to me, ..possibly bad luck, possibly jarring motion from banging out the carbon, I don't know, however I don't give it the welly I once did to be on the safe side.

I do have a blowtorch (well probably 10 TBT) & have given it a tickle in certain places, the temp of a good gas flame is very considerable & would (unless you really wanted to bullet proof it) go well beyond practical design / costings when weighing up this for unit price per piece, so I 'd say that a solder is used though what type I cannot be sure, & the way it sat was remniscant of pooling solder within its confines (underside) which is then filed, ..this is backed up when inspecting the underside of the crossbars of units by the matching filing on the crossframe.

While the wire work would withstand the flame, repeated heating with a blowtorch would likely cause premature failure not covered by warranty.

in essence this is designed for cold smoking & therefore low temperatures just a bit of heat & the odd blister on the skin, s/steel material is probably chosen to fulfill submersion & chemical attack requirements,

As I used to say to irate customers trying to avoid a chargeable not under warranty, a typical Amplifier has 10 volume markings, but sonic degradation is noticeable long before 5 typically, & to push it further is not recommended, if you need to go further up the volume scale you need to re-assess your set up & environmental limitations.

which reminds me I need to tickle a few rough edges with my dremel drill.

[saucisson]

Thanks GUS. I have noticed on mine that the mesh slope that you place the tealight under is developing some holes, but is probably due to me using a Micro Blow Torch instead of a tealight too many times. I should also add that mine is probably one of the oldest in the country so has had a long life

[GUS]

I've "personally" never had a problem with tea-lighting method, but this is because I don't use my fingers, nor a nail in the tealight(s) which will more likely than not dribble all over the place as the wax liquifies, I had an offcut of alloy sheet which slides perfectly under the tea-light completely whilst it is sitting getting the smoke started, pulls out a treat, no spillage, far more use per tea-light than previous.

Which reminds me, a dab of silicone as a guard at the back & front will support it far better for anyone going down this route in terms of overall stability either way.
sharpie marker guide trace around the light & alloy & a couple of dabs allowed to dry & slot in your tea-light,
..possibly only applicable to myself as I trip around & over "interested" hounds send to curse me.

will pop a picture up (pointlessly) with metal dimensions so you can go hawking around a machine shop or pashion something from a tin can with a dremel.

(no, your old fondue fuel holder will not suffice)

[GUS]

Regards my blowtorch "experience" * ..I did this (badly it should be noted) to re-light when I couldn't locate the pack of 50 tea-lights i'd hidden under the kickboards with other candles in sealed containers ...rather than tipping the dust out when it had gone out (ie forgot to microwave it, ..duh) & was not impressed at the flame spread on the metal, nor the way it made the dust "kick out" onto my Lowe alpine fleece, but it was clear that it was so fierce it allowed more often than not the burn to spread beyond the initial rail & would likely crap out the unit prematurely.

sliver of off-cut as a candle slider will put you right I promise (previously was only getting 2-3 lights per tea-light (I do tend to let em run a while, head injury often makes me forget, ..risky) but now they burn better / more re-light of the tea-light) as sloppage is nigh on eliminated., also makes wicking / guttering tea-light change overs simple insitu.

I stick to making cheese on toast with the nipper with mine.

*gas was regular torch gas no fancy burning mix.

[saucisson]

Good tip GUS, thanks.

[wheels]

Has anyone tried Coca-Cola yet? That seems to clean most things.

Strong solutions of washing powder/liquid may also be an option.

Phil

[GUS]

I'll try the coca-cola option in the next couple of days & let you know.

As the water pressure is naff round our way (you find out AFTER buying a decent pressurewasher) thats not an option, TBH I think anything you can paste on is going to be better in terms of suckin up carbon molecules, to my mind washing powder is a no no, due to low heat & powder blocking holes unless it is pre mixed in a hot bottle & shaken up, there will be sludge, there is always sludge, even with the liquid versions.

If only I had a decent size ultrasonic bath!