BBQer wrote:... I got a bit lost on the electrical devices.
I'm sorry about that.
There are simple devices that are just an electrical switch that 'switches' at a humidity level that the user sets. These are 'powered' by the humidity change itself. I paid less than �20 ($35?) for an ex-equipment one. New, that model costs 3x more, but its a 'pro' item, intended for protecting electronic equipment in outdoor enclosures.
There is a digital electronic version, but new it costs 3x as much as the mechanical version does when new.
When shopping for such a control switch its important to think which way it has to work.
An aircon thermostat has to switch 'on' when the temperature goes above the set point. A heating thermostat has to switch 'off' when the temperature rises above the set point - the opposite.
You have the same sort of thing depending on whether you are controlling a humidifier or a dehumidifier.
A switch which can control eitherwould be ideal.
Curing in a *working* fridge, where the outside temperature is higher than the curing temperature - so the fridge actually has to do some chilling - would tend to run at low humidity - because the chiller knocks out some moisture as condensation. In this situation, some form of humidifier is going to be needed.
However in your closed cabinet, the salami will raise the humidity, and I suspect that airchange (or water takeup by salt crystals) will be needed to keep the humidity low enough.
Just a note about using a fridge in an outhouse, like a garage. Outside summer in the UK, its quite likely that it may be cool enough that the chiller doesn't have to operate. So it won't de-humidify, and you're in the same situation as BBQer and the non-freezing freezer.
Strangely enough, I think the solution is to supply a little heat inside the fridge (a shielded 15w lightbulb? the rewired light already in the fridge?) - so that the chiller has to operate, and in that way dehumidify.